What kind of subfloor for ceramic tile

Somehow, manufacturers had to devise ways to make the unacceptable floor acceptable for a thin-bed installation — and do it quickly. Floor patch materials come from a variety of manufacturers and are used to obtain the required plane for tile installations. This includes filling cracks, voids, rough surfaces and low or depressed areas. Most of these products are latex-modified and require mixing with potable water. These patch products are designed to tenaciously bond to the properly prepared surface and fill low area, also known as bird baths, as well as flatten out high spots.

Trowelable underlayments contain cement, aggregate and are mixed with either potable water or a latex additive. Many manufacturers recommend applying a slurry coat of the product to the substrate allowing it to dry until it becomes tacky.

The recommended liquid and powder mix is then applied to the surface. Trowelable underlayment usually requires sanding after it dries to remove trowel ridges and allow for an additional layer if needed. Self-Leveling Underlayment, popularly known as SLU, is designed to flatten or possibly level a floor surface prior to installing tile.

Many architectural plans and specifications require the floor be level. This is especially true for highly specialized medical and technical equipment that require a perfectly level floor. In this case, provide careful attention to detail when applying the SLU so that, when done, the bubble of a spirit level, laser or transit successfully indicates a truly level surface…. Too little water can impede the flow of the mixture while too much water can cause the aggregate to sink to the bottom, separating from the other components, yielding a weak and powdery surface.

If the speed of the mixer is too slow, the product will not be properly combined and may not function as specified. Conversely, if a drill which spins too fast is used to mix the SLU, it may begin to set up in the barrel. Be sure to have enough help to mix, move, pour, and smooth the product within the allotted time. Once the SLU is poured onto the floor, move it into place with a gauge rake having adjustable legs to control the product thickness.

When completed, move a surface smoothing tool across the surface to break surface tension and flatten the SLU. Allow the recommended dry time depending on the environmental conditions before installing tile. Poured self-leveling underlayments are composed of various grades of gypsum along with a number of chemicals which control the setting time of the product and may be sanded or unsanded.

If using a latex additive, it is always wise to use the product provided by the manufacturer. Many times, gypsum-based underlayments are used in conjunction with resilient flooring to patch small holes, cracks or to ramp up or down to an adjacent floor finish.

However, they may also be used to flatten the large floor areas of properly prepared wood or concrete. Once the underlayment has been placed by a certified poured gypsum installer, a drying time of three to fourteen days, depending on the thickness, must be observed. Additionally, the site temperature and humidity may be a factor in achieving an adequately dry installation. This premature moisture removal from the mortar can compromise the bond of the tile to the gypsum.

Pourable self-leveling underlayments SLU contain cement, aggregate and chemical additives which enhance their flowability and strength. They are mixed with either potable water or a manufacturer recommended latex additive.

Substrates are almost always treated with a latex primer which serves two functions. The first is to increase the bond strength between the substrate and the SLU. Once placed, SLUs normally require between two and twenty-four hours to dry before the tile can be installed. This timeframe will vary based on the thickness of the cement along with the site temperature and humidity.

Normally, very minimal prep work is required prior to the installation of the tile. The installation of this product allows the installer only one attempt to set it correctly , since it is almost impossible to slide or lift it once it has been placed into fresh mortar.

Here the requirement for a flat substrate, both wall and floor, is critical. It is imperative that the air is expelled or burped out from under the tile and that the trowel ridges are collapsed. This lets little or no allowance for high or low spots in the surface to which the GPT is being applied. It must be corrected before the tile is installed. Some of these products have integral reinforcing fabrics for tensile strength and minor crack-bridging properties. These products must be load-bearing and bonded to the substrate in order to function properly.

In some cases, the trowel-applied products can be used as the adhesive for the tile. Other products within the scope of this category are allowed to cure or are applied as sheet goods and are then used as the substrate for the tile.

Uncoupling membranes are generally a plastic product that has some sort of bonding scrim or mesh applied to the back of the product to allow it to be bonded to the wood or concrete floor. The face of product may have a geometrical configuration or a mesh to promote bond to the back of the tile and provide air space between the tile and the substrate to allow independent movement between the two and limit the transfer of stresses. Once in place, their function is to disconnect the tile surface from the substrate to help eliminate cracked tile.

Uncoupling membranes may also act as a waterproofing membrane and function well in equalizing vapor pressure conditions encountered in young or newly placed concrete. These membranes may be trowel applied, sheet, or composite materials that are bonded to a suitable substrate so that tile can be bonded directly to the membrane. The interesting thing about the products described here is they may need to be used in concert with each other to provide a suitable surface for a quality tile installation.

The floor may need to be flattened with a patch or SLU anywhere from just a skim-coat to as heavy as six inches. The surface may further need the advantages offered by a backer board or one of the membranes mentioned above. Underlayments do a great job thanks to manufacturers committed to innovative products that make the finished tile installation look the way it should — flat and lippage free.

These two prerequisites along with using qualified labor, installers who meet the requirements of a Ceramic Tile Education Foundation Certified Tile Installer or Journeyman from the IUBAC, will enhance consumer confidence and ensure a beautiful and long-lasting tile installation.

Everyone wins! Have you heard about using CORK for an underlayment for ceramic tile? People are selling it for ceramic tile installations and it goes against everything I have learned over the last 31 years. Can you bring me up to speed? There is only one method using cork as an underlayment for the installation of tile in the TCNA Handbook.

The cork must be bonded to the substrate with an A We are renovating the bathroom at home and doing the sheeting for the water proofing and tiles myself. For the floor, I have tile underlay that all needs to slope one way to a slot drain in the shower. The existing floor is timber.

To achieve this slope I have put 10mm packers spaced mm apart at the high end and gradually reduced the packers to 3mm. Do you have a better way of achieving this slope or will this be fine?

The building codes in the United States, IRC for residential and the IBC for commercial installations, does not allow for the structural framing to be altered in order to facilitate the slope required in a shower application. If the installation will allow for additional height, a mortar bed could be used or by using a manufacturer-provided panel.

The floor is structurally sound with trusses on 12" centers beneath. What is my best option for underlayment? I want to make sure it is best for the loads of the furniture. I presume it should also have some waterproofing qualities because of the kitchen. Before any tile installation begins, the ability of the structure to carry the additional weight of the tile assembly must be determined. Most times, enlisting the expertise of a structural engineer or architect would be a wise choice.

If the structure is adequate, the underlayment should be a part of his or her recommendation. Although not required, a waterproofing system is good choice anytime water is present. Additionally, be certain to include expansion joints around the perimeter and throughout the installation as detail in the TCNA Handbook section, EJ Scott, I'm faced with a height issue I am not sure how to proceed with.

I am a homeowner who is going to be tiling about 60 sq. The room was converted from a garage long before we bought the house. I want to make sure that when I do rip up the flooring that I make sure that what ever type of flooring I replace it with will have a good sound sub floor under it so it will last this time. So I guess I have many questions the first being: After I rip up tile, what can I lay over the sub floor to make sure that it will be sound and water resistant without having to put a new sub floor in.

If I choose to install a floating floor all the way through from dining area to kitchen, what steps should I take to make sure that it is done correctly? Please help with advice and maybe good inexpensive materials to use. Thank you so much. I installed my down stairs tile on concrete and it turned out great but now i have moved upstairs and people are talking about water damage from the thinset which is where i learned about back boarding then something came to mind, the walls are always bowed and thier is a space between the boarding and the wall, what do i use to seal these areas, and should i put plastic under the backboarding to decrease the risk of water damage.

When my house was built, the builder encompassed my jetted tub with inch square tile. He only left a wooden access door for servicing the motor.

Also, the tile is just hanging on the wood without any backer board, is this normal? Once I decide to remove enough tile and cut a hole in the wood to access the switch, how will I replace the removed tile with some type of wooden access door. Is the process of attaching tile to a verticle base the same as attaching tile to a wooden floor horizontal base? I am getting ready to lay ceramic tile in my kitchen, hallway, and both bathrooms.

I have pulled up the sticky back linoleum. I have been told that I can use Ultraflex2 mortar without using the cement board.

Is this okay? Please read carefully. If someone tells you that a tile installation is only as good as its foundation and its preparation, you better believe it. In the case of tile floors the structure must be a suitable one. Not all structures are suitable for a tile installation. Floor deflection is one of the major causes of a floor tile installation failure. A traditional CBU is basically a sheet of cement and aggregate between two layers of fiber-mesh.

There are other variations that have the same attributes and there are versions that have a waterproof covering on one surface. The thinset is used not to bond the CBU to the substrate but instead to insure there are no voids anywhere under the CBU. In addition fasteners are used to install the CBU products.

In addition to the CBU style underlayments there are also a variety of plastic underlayments that serve a slightly different purpose.

In english. A mud sub floor over wire mesh and felt is the only way to ensure a proper foundation. In addition to the structural properties of a mud sub floor it also takes out any imperfections in the existing floor.

Cement board follows the flow of the existing floor and so will the tile. It is advice like this and installers who practice these methods that give this trade and industry a bad reputation.

When we pulled up a section we saw that there was a vinyl tile beneath the carpet which has a lot of glue on it from the carpet installation and beneath that is the original hardwood floor. Our first preference was to keep the hardwood floor, but given all the glue and vinyl tile it may not be possible. Is there some type of coating of layer that can be put on top of the vinyl glue surface so a new hardwood or laminate wood can fairly easily be installed? Thank you! I am going from a bathtub to a ceramic tile shower hopefully.

Is there a way I can install tile safely and not have this happen? Your question is a good one. The installation process is the same for your particular home as one that has been constructed on a concrete slab or foundation. However, before any installation is started you need to take into consideration what kind of settlement issues have occurred previously if any, and the cause for them.

If your home is structurally sound and has had no prior cause for concern you should be fine. If the ground is going to shift or move the force is so great that there is nothing you can do about it, but this should not deter you from wanting to accomplish this project. The most important thing to remember is to contract someone who is licensed, insured, and who uses quality materials for the installation of your project.

I am considering tiling my kitchen, laundry, and powder room. Will an expert in the industry care to comment on this potential floor system? Does anyone have any feedback on the Ditra? I want to replace the tile under my wood stove in my family room. Is there any special type of tile I need to use that will be sturdy enough to support the wood stove as well as heat resistant? Is ceramic ok? Do I need a layer of some material before the tiles? Currently there is just a layer of tiles on top a sheet of plywood on a built up platform.

Any help in this matter will be appreciated. That helps. Do I lay the wood floor first or the tile to achieve that even transition between materials without using transition strips? First Major DIY project…and am a little intimidated. Thanks for the advice. Can l do this?

Is the floor strong enough? Our house is 8 yrs old. The joist are 16 inches on center, and we have a plywood sub floor. How can l tell whats good and whats not good enough to keep.

The tiles broke way too easily so I was suspicious and when removing the pieces of tile I found wood rot which caused a hollow effect under these tiles tile over wood subfloor. The house is 25 years old and this is the original tile. This floor in question is the second story of a two-story home. Is there any easy way to fix this? Who should check it out and how can it be repaired with minimal damage to first story ceiling?

Is 1 inch overkill? There is a moderate possibility an upright piano might make its way down there eventually. I am putting things together so that if I ever Heaven forbid! Second dilemma: Do I install the drywall right to the concrete floor and then install the subfloor, or keep the bottom edge of the drywall at or slightly above the subfloor level?

I have explored and searched and have not had much luck from online publications I can find about this. In tearing up old tile, discovered that it was installed old-fashioned way- lots of mortar right on top of wood subfloor. Tiles are coming up easily, but mortar is not.

Any hints to make this demo removing old mortar easier? Or do i just use a self leveling compound across the floor before installing backer board rather not as this will make things too high.

I am currently in the planning stages of a pretty major kitchen re-do. The floor is currently parkey and I am planning on removing it and installing tile. I am planning on having an island in the middle of the kitchen with bar seating. Is these feasible to have an island over tile flooring? If so, what would be the best way to keep it from moving? To Liz B. You can either put the island in place and tile around it in which case the tile will hold it , or tile first.

Islands can be pretty heavy, so you might not need to attach it to the floor at all unless your building codes call for it. If you do attach it to the floor, attach blocks of wood to the floor inside the island with concrete anchors, then set the island over it. Should I use a vapor barrier between the sub and cement? Also would you please explain why you should never use deck screw to attach the two floors? Thank you Thomas.

I removed an engineered wood floor that was glued down to tile. The tile came with it.. It is in an entry way and I was going to install tile there anyhow. There is the remanats of the thinset on top. Can I just knock down the thinset high spots and apply a new layer of thinset to secure the new tiles or is there somthing I should do to prepare the mortar bed? Thanks, John. The bar is currently made out of pressure treated plywood on the sides and we want to tile over that.

I know we need some kind of waterproof barrier to protect the wood from warping. What are your thoughts? Only problem is floor is painted. Can we use a type of thinset that will adhere to these floors if we rough up the surface…. I checked with tile store and they said we could mix raw thinset with a latex material that would make it adhere well, but I just wanted to get your opinion too. Thanks in advance for your reply…. I need some advise with our bathroom. We live in an unstairs condo with a gybcrete sub-floor poured throughout the place for sound proofing.

We tiled the bathroom floor over the gybcrete almost two years ago. The grout started cracking 9 months later. We tried replacing 8 tiles and sealing the gybcrete under those nine tiles a year later. We then proceeded to pull the entire gybrete sub-floor out of the bathroom area. What would you suggest to replace the gybcrete and how would you make sure the replaced materical connects with the hallway and laundry room?

Thanks for your help! I am looking to put slate down in my entry way of my house. I have it down to the subfloor. Should I use a tile backer board for the slate? Your help is appreciated. Want to tile my kitchen. Home was built 6 yrs ago. Can I do it? Will the floor be rigid enough? Is my project doomed? Is it sufficient to just prime the wood? We need to replace a toilet and want to tile the bathroom too we have carpet now and want to get rid of it …….

Wow what a very informative site!! Thank you for having it! I have begun to remodel my bathroom. I would like to make a fully ceramic tiled shower. The sub floor threw me for a loop though. I am in agreement with most of you that this is one of the most impressive sites I have come across.

Any comments would be appreciated concerning my kitchen floor install. The previous owner put vinyl over the hardwoods. First of all, the self-leveling cement is cracking. Is it OK to lay the backerboard over the cement? I would like to keep the height consistent with new carpet that was installed.

Thanks for your suggestions. I want to install a pell and stick tilles,DO I need to put down a luon sub-floor first,for smoothness. And is the anything else I should put down before applying the pell and stick tile? I am remodeling my kitchen.

The kitchen floor meets with hardwood floors at hallway and livingroom. All are level now but I want to put tile in my kitchen without having a big transition. What do I do? I am having a new home built. Should a cement board not be used? If not cement board, what system is best? Our floor seems to be 1x5s laid diagonally we want to lay 40x40cm ceramic tiles in our kitchen and dining room what is the best way to do this? Can we lay plywood sheets straight onto this and then start tiling?

I think I need step by step help. Waiting to get advice from any one Thanks. What is the best mortar to use when tiling directly over tile? Also, any other advice you can share regarding tiling over tile would be appreciated. Can it be done? We are remodeling our living room and would like to put wood floor however, our subfloor is not leveled.

How would we go about this? How do we fix a floor that is not leveled? I would like to install my tile in my condo, but in order to do this I will need completely install the tile in one half of the condo, and then move everything to that side and then complete the other half. Is this okay to do? If so, can I just cut the underlayment where it goes under the cabinets which I am not going to tile underneath? I am installing ceramic tile in a kitchen that was built in The wood floor boards are somewhat warped and not in the best of shape.

I have removed several layers of luaun, tar paper and linoleum. Rather than attempting to remove all of the nails and straighten out the floor boards, I am wondering if it is feasible for me to remove the floor boards and just place the cement boards directly over the subfloor.

I am concerned that there may be too much flex in the subfloor between the joists. Michael, Removing the wood flooring and adding a layer of cement backer board on top of the subfloor for tiling is certainly a possibility, but you are right to be concerned about flexing, as cement board adds little in the way of strength to the floor.

It would depend on what center the joists are on, the thickness and material used for the subfloor, and the condition it is in. I am installing an electric heated floor on top of a concrete pad in a basement which ceramic tiles will then be placed overtop. I have been told that I should insulate the heating floor system from the concrete pad to prevent heat loss down into the pad and encourage it to move up into the tiles.

A couple options considered are:. Hi Mark, For the under floor radiant heating system in our project house, we used treated plywood nailed to the slab, but that was more to have a way to attach the Uponor Quik Trak system than for insulation purposes.

I would think the manufacturer of your system would be able to supply you with installation guidelines for it. I do not know exactly what condition the wood is in. I plan on pulling all the vinyl out, screwing down cement backerboard right on top of the hardwood, thinset mortar, and tile. Would you recommend anything else??? Adam, Sounds good to me. If the vinyl square are stuck down good, you could save yourself some trouble and leave them in place and screw the backer board down on top of them.

I already ordered the cement board and am inclined to stick with it. We are planning to tile our kitchen this weekend. We have it all ready with concrete board. My question is how soon after you tile and grout can you move your stove and fridge back into the kitchen. Question: I pulled up the tiles in my hallway and scraped off ALL the thinset.

The floor is solid and the plywood really held the tiles on strong. It took me and my wife many hours to get them up and scrape the floor. Can I install new tiles over this pre-existing plywood?

Advice please. I am just chaning them because we are installing ones with different color. We are remodeling. Changed my mind. I am gonna rip up the old plywood and put down backerboard.

People keep telling me to use liquid nails instead of thinset for below the backerboard. Will this work? I installed it over my OSB subfloor in a bathroom. It was easy to work with, as the cellular membrane is flexible. I am in the process of installing tiles in my kitchen floor. I leveled the subfloor with quick level thinset the best I could. Hi Alex, You can use leveling compound to fill in the low spots, then tile over it once it has set.

Hi Bryan, Before backer board was used, the common method of laying a tile floor was to pour several inches of mortar on top of the subfloor. Once it had hardened, the tile was laid using thin-set on top of it. The floor is solid with absolutely no flexibility. Everything I read pretty much says you need 1.

I want to install tile outdoors over a plywood deck. How should I proceed? Thanks for the very informative site. The sink is on an island and the backsplash is the backside of a breakfast bar.

Is there an alternative to using a backerboard? Can I apply some waterproof primer to the wood and then apply the thinset to it? Thanks in advanced for any info. Good luck with your project. Same question as Hans Boerner asked on May 24th about laying external tile over a wooden deck, possibly using Ditra as a waterproofing underlayment over exterior plywood. Any advice would be appreciated. Most tile installers tell me to forget it.

But I have to believe the technology we have available now should solve the problems. Actually, we just did that on a project out on the Fowl River in south Alabama. They came out with a new size this past year, I want to say they call it Ditra Ultra, but you want the original…just plain Ditra.

Afterward just tile over the cement??? Hi Russ, Yes, you can use floor patch on top of cement backer board to level a subfloor , then tile over it. I will be putting it over wood subfloor Also, do you have to apply a thin layer of thinset underneath the Ditra before laying it? Hi Dean, Ditra is specifically made for floor tile applications.

You do lay Ditra in a layer of thin-set fortified with latex, then apply another layer of thin-set without latex additive on top of it to lay the tile. You can watch it being done, and read more about it in our episode on Flooring Solutions for Your Home.

I purchased a 58 year old house and had to have the kitchen gutted and the joists and subfloor replaced. There currently are hills and valleys in the subfloor. I want to tile the floor but am concerned about trying to level it all before starting with the tile and backerboard.

What would be your suggestion on moving forward with this kitchen renovation? We are getting ready to install ceramic tile where we previously had linoleum. When we removed the linoleum, we found that there is wood subfloor under the majority of the floor that is in really good condition. However, at the edge of the kitchen, where it meets our breakfast room, there is a concrete step that is level with the existing wood subfloor The breakfast room was an addition, so the step used to be the step to enter the house.

With the linoleum, they had an extra threshhold where the concrete meets the wood. Will we have to keep that with the tile, or can we just continue the tile pattern there? I am worried that the wood will expand and contract at a different rate than the concrete.

Our bathroom had vinal flooring. Thanks in advance. I want to install porcelain tile in Kitchen, hall and bath. It should be noted that it is okay to use a Gypsum board for flooring or counter tops only and NEVER for a shower or areas that tend to get wet frequently. Most tile product companies do not warranty a installation on gypsum board in a shower or water areas— even if waterproofed properly.

Think of what happens to cardboard when you get it wet. I am replacing a glass enclosed corner shower with a low threshold type shower that uses a weighted curtain versus a glass enclosure. I am concerned about water escaping the shower and would like to install a tile floor. Mark, Exterior grade plywood is the preferred subfloor under tile rather than OSB, since it deflects less and is more resistant to water and moisture.

We had a tile floor put in our kitchen and both bathrooms and hate it. We want it removed so we can put vinyl or hardwood back down. We must do it ourselves in order to afford it.

It was over a wood subfloor so cement backer board was put down under it then it was attached using grout. What equipment would help? We are not at all experienced so any advice would be appreciated! First, thank you so much for your web site. It is a wonderful resource for those of us who prefer to do our own work. I have learned a lot and I am so glad I found you before going forward.

My house is 46 years old and on a concrete slab foundation. We have tiled the kitchen with ceramic tile and now wish to continue the tile into what was the garage but will now be the laundry room.

So after reading your message board I tried to come up with a plan for the sub-floor. How does this sound? Apply un-modified thin set on top of the plywood. Is that too much? Also, if you have a better suggestion please let me know. I eagerly await your response. Hi Robin, While your plan sounds fine, I would use pressure treated wood for the 2x3s in case there is a moisture problem with the garage floor. Using two layers of plywood as you mentioned is fine, but it would add more to the cost.

See my Sept. Good luck with your project! I want to put in a tile floor and it will be installed over the poured concrete basement slab. First… When the original concrete floor was poured, the temp. Should I try to break up and remove the skim coat in those areas and use proper installation techniques for tile over concrete slab or can I trust the skim coat layer? Hi Mitzi, Regarding your first question, if the existing skimmed over concrete appears to be solid and in good condition, I would tile over it.

However, it sounds like from you description it may not be adhering well, in which case you may be able to hit it with a sledge hammer not too hard and break it up while leaving the bottom layer of concrete in place.

Laying travertine over resilient flooring — I did a ton of research on this and as well as on deflection and FINALLY decided to go ahead and lay right on top of my resilient flooring. Of course first I installed the HardiBacker board.

It was my first home project ever…and I nailed it!! Time will tell on how it wears, but I really feel that it is there for good and there will not be any problems down the road. Way to go, Mark!

Sounds like you got it right the first time. Thanks for the feedback. I am currently working on putting tile in our bathroom and need to take up the particle board that has linoleum on it to be replaced with cement backer board. The problem is that the particle board runs under the vanity.

How do you suggest I cut the particle board so that it is flush with the bottom of the vanity? Not an official answer, but I know that stuff is usually fairly thin at least it was under the vinyl at my house.

You might be able to deeply score it with a box cutter and pry it up with a screwdriver or similar tool. I work in a snowboard shop and we are working on a special project. However, due to door clearance issues, there is not enough room for a backer board. Any other tips with this unique project? I am installing porcelain tile in my kitchen. Check your local building codes to be sure.

Ben, Thanks for the reply. I am following the screwing pattern that is designated on the Hardiebacker Board with 1. Wish me luck. I agree this is a really great site. I am a big DIYer and haave recently remodeled my master bathroom and half bath. The stairs leading from my lower level in my condo I want to replace with ceramic tile and it has a plywood subfloor.

I wanted to know if there is anything special to doing tile on stairs versus on a regular flat floor. The tile store I went to showed me a metal trim I need to use versus the bullnose since this should not be stepped on. I was looking for a step by step on installing tile on plywood stairs. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Ben, Drive longer screws through the backerboard into the joists, or put longer screws through the subfloor into the joinst BEFORE laying the backerboard?

Hi Darren, Actually I was thinking of driving them through the backer board into the joists, but either approach would work. I was told this was not a good idea.

It seems to me that the more the structure under the tile the better. Am I wrong? The floor seems solid and I plan on installing many screws into the underlying joists. Is that so? Could I avoid doing so altogether by simply using Shuler Ditra?

Thanks in advance for any info. Hi Dennis, Glad to hear that our site has been a help. Since backer board adds little in the way of strength to the floor, having thick enough plywood is important.

If you look back at my Sept. Any suggestions??? Hi Ben, and thanks for the prompt and concise response. Thanks again! Ben, So right now the Kitchen floor has thin vinyl tile squares.

Not sure what is underneath. I am going to remove the tiles before installing ceramic tiles. Hi Barry, If adding backer board will make the floor higher than you would like, you could consider using one of the thin new underlayment membranes instead.

I am redoing my upstairs bathroom and want to put in ceramic tile. I guess I am confused, what type of subfloor and how thick should I use for ceramic tile? Thanks Joe. Hi Joe, Check out my comment above posted on September 17, , to find the answer to your questions.

Ben, My tile is finished!! Thanks for your advice and counsel. I put down pre-sealed porcelain tile and did not seal it prior to grouting.

What can I do? I have tried a haze remover from a hardware store, but no luck. The porcelain tiles have a dull finish, if that is something you need to know. Please help, these hazed tiles are driving me crazy!! I am going to tile over an existing tile floor as shown on your bathroom makeover.

I have been told to acid etch the tile first to help the thinset adhere to the old tile. Do you recommend this? Thanks for any advice you can give. I also like to use the fortified thinset. So in attempting to install ceramic tile, the demo of the old floor which is self sticking vinyl squares atop linoleum.

The problem is that the backing of the linoleum will not come up by scraping. Any good solutions to removing that backing? Is that joist span too wide for tile? I have just finished ceramic tiling my 3 bathrooms. The tile walked on the most are coming loose. How can I re-install them so they will not come loose?

Would this help? Hi Fred, To find the answer to your question, read my comment posted above on September 17, Any flooring recommendations besides tile? Hi Johnny, You should use exterior grade plywood rather than particle board for a bathroom subfloor, since water can cause it to disintegrate.

Another common bathroom option beside tile that would resist water damage much better than carpet is sheet vinyl. I purchased a house and hated the sheet vinyl in the bathroom, not to mention 6 layers of wallpaper! May 26, at I have engineered hardwood on a concrete slab. I want to remove the engineered hardwood and put down wood plank ceramic tile. Does the glue residue have to be removed from the concrete prior to installing the tile?

May 19, at Have a 1st floor condo with a concrete floor that is above grade because it is over the garage. Is it ok to lay porcelain tile directly on concrete. April 25, at The old tile were some type of natural stone.

I consulted with the tile shop where I bought my new tile and he suggested that perhaps the grade of ply was not adequate. April 7, at We took up old ceramic tile original with a 20 year old house and found no cement board or other underlayment material underneath. Is this adequate to install new 12 x 24 inch porcelain tiles? May 3, at You will need to at least put down a concrete back board. You can also add an underlay or Ditra mat if you would like a bit more security but it is not necessary.

Please let us know if you have any other questions! March 25, at I am considering porceline tile. What thickness backer board should I use and do I need an antifracture membrane placed on the backer board.

April 4, at Thank you for getting in touch! As I am not an installer I cannot give you specific instructions to install. You will need to make sure the subfloor does not move or bend. December 18, at It has concrete floor.. January 16, at Thank you for your inquiry. You can install tile over a concrete floor. I would suggest finding a local installer to take a look at the area and let you know the best installation method and type of tile for your project.

December 14, at I assume I need to add an inch of subfloor to replace the concrete. Is that okay or is that too many layers?

If it is okay, how should the layers be fastened? Thank you. December 15, at Hi Chris — thanks for reaching out to us!